Policies and Warranty Statement

Installation should run about 12-15 hours.

We had an order for a late 3.6 motor to be shipped ready to bolt in.  One of the cam boxes had a very slight leak, so we decided to remove and reseal both cam boxes.   That's just how we do business.

First the front and side sheet metal were removed along with the engine cross member.
 

Also - the front engine support needed to be removed.  You have two choices, either remove the pulleys or remove the studs.  Removing the studs is MUCH easier!  Use a proper stud puller, like the snap on model shown.  The studs are 10x1.5mm

The distributor needs to be removed as well.  Make sure the motor is at TDC with the timing marks on the distributor lined up.  Make sure the opening is blocked, then remove valve covers, oil feed, and chain cover.  This is not a fun job.

Here is the with the cam box removed ready for reassembly.  We had mounted the dial indicator to check cam timing before disassembly, to make sure it was OK and make things easier.  We set the desired amount of lift to zero since the dial indicator will show negative displacement as the valve opens.  Set the indicators to the proper tolerance.

Here it is after reassembly with the cam timed.  We use a quick clamp to hold the ramp.  You can also use the tensioner since the cam is rotated counter clockwise and the tensioner just picks up slop.

Now for 4-6.  Here it is disassembled with a new seal between the case and cam box (this motor had a slight leak form the case to the box where the oil feeds the tensioner.

This is hard to see but we used Dow Corning 730 on the cam tower seal (white stuff)

Again, timing the cams, right in the middle of the spec.

Last step was to adjust the valves on both sides.  Also took this opportunity to double check head studs.  All were fine.

Reassemble

Here we installed TRG headers and supertrapps along with a custom fabricated bracket.

This picture shows the fan hosing block off.  That is where the distributor vent kit gets installed.  That is visible in the last picture, the engine being shipped.

To complete the engine, we take remove the supertrapps.  After the engine comes off the stand, we install the clutch pack and starter ring gear, box it up, and it's ready to go.

Total time on this was about 15 hours from a stock 964 engine to this point.  That included removing unneeded 964 parts (exhaust, cruse control, PS housing, flywheel, etc.), removing parts for modification (front and rear sheet metal and cross member), cleaning all the undercoating off the bottom of the engine, performing the procedure above, which took about 6 hours, installing the exhaust and clutch assemblies, along with the oil scavenge line, oil feed line, and cone filter.

When the customer receives the engine, he will need to install the conversion harness and route his DME harness and mount the coil pack (2.5 hours), notch the transmission, mate the engine to the transmission, (.5 hours), install the assembly, fill with oil, connect fuel lines, and oil lines, replace the engine to thermostat line, etc. per normal engine install (3-4 hours) so it should run the in one day.

I have performed this conversion from a 3.4 to 3.6 using a prepped 3.6 in 4 hours total, including R&R.  Note, however, that this was on a race car, so we had lots of room, and I have done this before!

Related Links:

• Instant-G Home
• 3.6 Conversion Page
• 3.6 Crate Motor Page
• 3.6 Engine types defined
• The truth about 3.8s
• 964 Head Gasket Leaks
• In House 3.6/3.8 Conversions